其他品種

  • 兩棲類動物

    這是極具吸引力的動物類型,包括青蛙,蟾蜍,蠑螈和蠑螈類動物,共逾 6, 000 個不同的品種。最常見於診所及作為寵物的種類計有非洲爪蟾、白氏樹蛙和角蛙。許多孩子都會飼養蝌蚪,看著牠們長大,並在牠們變成小青蛙前,才放生牠們。

    要了解兩棲類動物,便必須謹記,儘管牠們被歸類為爬蟲類動物,稱為「爬蟲兩棲類」,但其實牠們並沒有太多共通點。一般來說,兩棲類動物較爬蟲類動物更不能忍受馴養的問題。兩棲類動物無法忍受溫度的變化,而且對於水平衡和有害的環境非常敏感,因為牠們的皮膚是透氣和敏感的。

    護理

    牠們是不容易飼養的寵物,因為牠們的需求十分獨特,根據物種的自然歷史,牠們一般可在擁有天然生態環境的玻璃池或水缸好好地生活。

    角蛙可以經常生活在一個簡單的玻璃碗內,但這對牠們是不公平的,因為這是一個空虛又無聊的生活環境。

    水的質素是非常重要的,而且必須是乾淨和不含毒素的。由於自來水中含氯,故是不可使用的。不同的物種需要不同水的酸鹼度,鹽度及硬度,以及有不同的溫度和光度要求。

    大多數兩棲類動物對於過熱的氣溫都非常敏感,牠們不喜歡溫度變化得太快,因為牠們大多生活在河流和湖泊,這些地方的季節變化都是非常緩慢的。

    飲食

    大多數物種都是食肉及食蟲的,當牠們非常小的時候,是很難找到合適的活生生食物。

    牠們往往很貪婪,經常將食品吞掉,但卻會出現兩個問題,首先,牠們可能會獲取太多脂肪,其次是牠們會吞下圍欄的石頭。

    護理照顧

    大家必須明白,牠們的皮膚是非常敏感的,儘管只是輕輕觸摸,仍是會傷害牠們的,故在護理照顧牠們時,應該戴上手套。水缸不應有粗糙的紋理或尖銳的地方,令牠們可以傷害自己。

    疾病

    皮膚病是很常見的,因為牠們需要非常體貼的護理,而且要保持水質良好亦是非常困難的。用藥治療滑溜的青蛙是非常困難的,故最佳防止疾病的方法是確保遵行正確的馴養方法。

    特別護理

    兩棲類和爬蟲類動物都會在腸道中攜帶沙門氏菌,而不會呈現任何症狀。若感染這種病菌,人類(特別是兒童)很可能會出現嚴重的疾病。

    對所有寵物來說,良好的衛生情況是十分重要的,欲了解更多詳情, 請參閱我們有關沙門氏菌的資料。 < refers to a handout (broken link)

  • 山羊

    普通山羊和侏儒山羊都是十分可愛的動物,可以成為令人喜愛的寵物,而且不須很大的空間和大量的餵飼時間。

    護理:牠們需要一個足夠大的戶外走動空間,圍欄要堅硬,以防狗隻挖洞通過(因為狗和蟒蛇均會殺死及吃掉山羊),亦要有足夠的高度,以防止牠們跳出來。這地方應有平台或大石,令山羊可以周圍攀爬和跳躍。樹蔭是非常重要的,但您必須保護樹幹,否則山羊會剝去樹皮,令樹木死亡。山羊喜歡有低懸樹枝的樹木,令牠們可以用後腿站立,然後伸長身體去細咬任何可觸及的葉子。

    不應個別飼養山羊,因為牠們是群居動物,兩隻雄性山羊會經常打架,故兩隻雌性山羊,或已閹割的雄性山羊及一隻或多隻雌性山羊是理想的組合。

    一間堅固的羊舍是必要的,可以保護牠們免受風雨侵襲。羊舍的地板應是平滑及易於清理的,您亦必須定期清理羊舍,以防止積聚寄生蟲。

    每天應為羊舍提供新鮮的飲用水。

    飲食:山羊如同牛隻一樣是草食動物,牠們喜歡吃樹葉和灌木。乾草可以作為基本的食糧,佐以每年落葉樹木的切斷樹枝。

    牠們是非常挑剔的動物,不會吃牠們認為是骯髒的食物。寵物主人應用一個架子來盛載牠們的飼料,而不應放在地上,否則牠們是不會吃的。另一種方法是購買馬匹的「乾草網」,可以吊在樹上來盛載乾草。若山羊吃地上的食物,是有機會出現寄生蟲的問題。

    如果您需要購買大量的乾草,您可以致電本地的騎馬學校,詢問牠們可否賣一大捆給您,這較從寵物店購買為兔子包裝的乾草要平宜得多。

    山羊會很喜歡吃有毒的植物,故必須避免牠們接觸常綠的樹木及很多庭園的植物。如果您是在花園飼養山羊的,不要假設牠們只會吃草,您亦必須提供補充食品如乾草及嫩葉等。

    提供新的食物前,務必仔細檢查,並必定要慢慢轉變。

    麵包,餅乾,雞飼料及穀物都不盡適合,因為山羊沒有健康的腸道,並有很高的風險出現膀胱結石的問題。這樣,很容易令雄性山羊死亡。

    健康護理:寄生蟲如蠕蟲和蝨子都是常見的問題,您需要獸醫的建議來處理這些問題。傷口很容易導致蠅蛆病,且必須盡快處理。

  • 迷你豬

    在過去數年,這些可愛的動物獲批在本港出售。

    我們估計是由於不適當的護理和疾病,故九成購買回來的迷你豬都會死亡,又或由於照顧牠們並非一件易事,令寵物主人會選擇放棄飼養牠們,我們亦曾在醫院看見一些例子。牠們的壽命可以長達 10 至 15 歲。

    迷你豬是極好的寵物,如狗一般聰明,但卻需要大量的空間,更會令地方變得亂七八糟,需要一個非常用心的主人。寵物醫院的其中一位股東 Dr. Gail 很自豪地擁有一隻香港的迷你豬,名叫 Bacon ,她非常用心地照顧牠。她甚至在陽光明媚的週日早晨為牠塗上防曬霜,以免牠受到太陽灼傷!牠重達 120 公斤,是兩個以上一般香港人的體重!

    人們常說牠們長大後的體積仍會是非常小,可以保存在住宅內,可惜這並非事實。牠們很快就可學會打開冰箱和櫃,去偷取食物,並翻起地毯和家具,而那些沒有接受訓練的迷你豬更會隨處大小便。

    護理:在大部分時間,迷你豬都必須在戶外飼養,且需要一間豬舍,為牠阻擋風雨和猛烈的陽光。牠們喜歡一個泥濘的浴缸,在當中靜躺或打滾,亦會挖地尋找植物的根和菌類植物。主人必需預備一道堅硬的圍欄或電圍欄,以防止牠們逃脫,並防止狗隻進來和攻擊牠們。 Dr. Gails 的迷你豬整天都會在屋外裝有護墊的地方走動,吃過晚餐後,牠會先行淋浴,然後睡在屋內的狗床上。

    如果您的迷你豬不會時常與人接觸,牠們就需要另一隻迷你豬作朋友。

    飼養迷你豬是需要向政府申請牌照,政府人員亦會進行檢查。您需要將豬飼養於被規劃作「農業用途」,而非「鄉村用途」的土地,才可獲政府批准。

    飲食:迷你豬是雜食的動物,可以吃類似人類的食物,但這樣卻很難取得營養的平衡,故我們建議餵食 Mazuri 迷你豬的合成飼料,再配合一些蔬菜和水果。我們不建議餵食任何肉類,因為疾病可透過這種方式傳播。

    迷你豬是天生貪婪的,並會盡量吃下所有食物,如果牠們聞到食物的香味,便會盡最大努力去找出來,因而成為打開櫥櫃和襲擊垃圾桶的專家。

    培訓:您必須為您的寵物進行培訓,這樣您就可以在需要時好好管理及移動牠。我們的建議根據雄性的迷你豬而作出的,因為這會較容易處理。雄性的迷你豬(或公豬)是十分難以培訓及具侵略性的,而且充滿強烈的體臭。

    如果您仍然認為自己適合飼養迷你豬,我們很樂意為您進行必要的年度檢查,絕育和疫苗注射,協助您的寵物生活得健康快樂。

  • 花栗鼠 and 松鼠

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    These animals are rarely kept in Hong Kong, which is a good thing as they require huge amounts of space, which is not available in most apartments. They are all tree living animals and therefore they need to climb and run and require large high cages with plenty of branches to run around on.

    As they have not been fully domesticated they are often quite ‘wild” and difficult to handle, as well as needing peace and quiet (another item in short supply in most Hong Kong flats).

    They are extremely cute and this is why many people would like to own one BUT there are many problems and difficulties that you can read about below  that you MUST think about before you buy one !

    We do occasionally see chipmunks, or the Pallas squirrel which lives wild in Hong Kong, when babies have been found and hand reared.

    Diet

    Both animals require a special rodent diet like Mazuri Rat and Mouse food as thier base diet. This then neds supplemented with fruits, vegetables, seeds and nuts. For further diet information please read teh ‘Care of Squirrels’ or ‘Care of Chipmunks’ handout in our ‘Home Care’ section.

    Housing

    Chipmunks and Squirrels both live in treetops and run and glide large distances every night to feed. Their cage requirements are far beyond what would be needed for a comparable sized pet, such as a hamster, gerbil, or small bird. A typical “healthy” cage would need to be the size of an outside aviary.

    Messy

    Chipmunks and Squirrels are indeed very messy animals. They will empty their bowels (poop) as they move around, while it is eating, out for play and running on you.  While in the cage, they spend much of their time climbing up on the bars and therefore they pee, poo and even throw food and waste outside of the cage.

    Biting

    Chipmunks and Squirrels are an exotic wild animal and some will bite, generally they are not tame enough to handle easily.

    Longevity

    In captivity, both animals can live up to 8-12 years.

    Health

    Chipmunks and Squirrels can develop health problems which can be bizarre as well as emotionally and financially draining. Many of the problems are related to the fact that they generally do not adapt well in captivity, especially in the Hong Kong environment where they are kept in small flats and do not have access to proper housing like an outside aviary. Due to this, as well as developing medical problems, many psychological problems develop.

    Overall we do not recommend keeping these types of ‘exotic’ pets as a companion animal.

  • 花栗鼠

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    These animals are rarely kept in Hong Kong, which is a good thing as they require huge amounts of space, which is not available in most apartments. They are all tree living animals and therefore they need to climb and run and require large high cages with plenty of branches to run around on.

    As they have not been fully domesticated they are often quite ‘wild” and difficult to handle, as well as needing peace and quiet (another item in short supply in most Hong Kong flats).

    They are extremely cute and this is why many people would like to own one BUT there are many problems and difficulties that you can read about below  that you MUST think about before you buy one !

    Diet

    Sugar gliders require a special diet that cannot be bought in a pet shop like dog or cat foods – they cannot be healthy on dry pellet type foods. Sugar gliders are an exotic wild animal and they require an exotic diet that can get complicated. If you are squeamish around mealworms, crickets and other bugs, you should not own a sugar glider. Please read our ‘Care of Sugar-gliders’ handout under ‘Home Care’ to learn more about the speical diet that must be prepared for them.

    Housing

    Sugar gliders live in treetops and run and glide large distances every night to feed. Their cage requirements are far beyond what would be needed for a comparable sized pet, such as a hamster, gerbil, or small bird. A typical “healthy” cage would need to be the size of an outside aviary.

    Smell

    Sugar gliders are very scent-driven and can be smelly animals. They have scent glands on their bodies which they use to ‘mark’ their territory (which may include their owner!). They also mark constantly with their urine.  If they are kept in a small cage it becomes very smelly and messy after a few days and needs to be constantly cleaned.

    Noise

    Sugar gliders are noisy, and what is worse, they are noisy all night long. Being nocturnal animals they are awake when you are sleeping and they are sleeping when you are awake. Owners miss most of the pet’s awake time, but their barking and squeaking and hissing and various cage noises, including clanks, bangs and constant exercise wheel’s running, may keep you awake

    Messy

    Sugar gliders are indeed very messy animals. They will empty their bowels (poop) as they move around, while it is eating, out for play and running on you.  While in the cage, they spend much of their time climbing up on the bars and therefore they pee, poo and even throw food and waste outside of the cage.

    Reproduction

    Sugar gliders in captivity have the capability to breed constantly. It is common to have a litter of 1 to 3 babies up to 3 times a year. This is a strain on the female and certainly becomes a problem for the keeper when there are too many animals to care, especially when the male is housed in a cage with a number of females. Overpopulation has become a very big issue with many unwanted sugar gliders living in bad conditions.

    Biting

    Sugar gliders are an exotic wild animal and some will bite. Some people have needed to get stitches because of how deep a sugar glider can bite. Their teeth are designed to peel bark off trees, therefore when they bite their owner they can easily cause a deep wound.

    Longevity

    In captivity, sugar gliders can live up to 15 years.

    Companionship

    Sugar gliders are a social animal and are not meant to be alone. Human contact is absolutely not a replacement for a family of their own kind. A minimum number of animals is two, do not ever plan to have just one.

    Solitary kept Sugar gliders frequently develop problems such as self-mutilation or biting due to depression. There is no replacement for sleeping with and interacting with their own kind.

    Health

    Sugar glider health problems can be bizarre as well as emotionally and financially draining, especially the psychological problems that develop.

    Overall we do not recommend keeping these types of ‘exotic’ pets as a companion animal.

  • Rats

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    Vaccinations

    We do not currently recommend vaccinations for rats.

    The main disease risk to your pet are other rats, particularly those in pet shops as infectious disease is more common here. If you go to a pet shop please do not touch any, even though they are very, very cute! Wild mice and rats could also carry disease so do make sure your house is rodent proof.

    Only let your precious pet come into contact with other animals that you know to be healthy.

    Think twice before going to an animal party or show.

    If you bring a new pet into your house it is VERY important to quarantine, or separate the new pet in a different room for at least 2 weeks [and preferably after a vet check].

    Health Checks

    A NEW PET Congratulations !

    We hope your new family member will bring you much joy and happiness

    We recommend a health check shortly after bringing your new pet home.

    Bring in details of all foods and any supplements or medicines you may be using.

    Collect samples of urine and faeces from that morning if you can.

    Take videos of any behaviours that you are worried about or confused by.

    Isolate from the rest of your animal family at home (that means do not introduce or let them play together) until after the first check up and the vet has assessed the pet as being healthy.

    If you do wish to introduce then please ask us how and when this should be done.

    At the ‘Health Check’ we will perform a full physical examination, and we will be assessing your new pet’s overall condition, the muscle and fat levels, hydration and checking for anaemia.

    We will be paying particular attention for parasites & for signs of any infectious diseases. We will be focusing on gut function and on the diet, whether is it appropriate and the amounts suitable. We may not perform a full dental check on young animals if the incisors look normal.

    Once we have examined your pet hopefully we will have found nothing seriously wrong, and we will then make whatever recommendations we think are necessary for the diet and care of the pet. If there is time we will talk to you about handling and training as this is the right age to be teaching your pet !

    ANNUAL HEALTH CHECK

    Once your new pet is settled in and any health problems have been solved, then we recommend a yearly general health check.

    Please ensure you know the brands of foods your pet is on, and any supplements or long term medications.

    Bring urine and faeces from that morning if you can. We would also like to see a photo of the cage set up.

    At this check we will assess body condition, muscle and fat levels, hydration and check for anaemia. We will check the eyes, ears, and perform the very important dental examination. We will feel the lymph nodes, palpate the abdomen for any abnormalities and listen to the heart and lungs.

    We will search for parasites, and examine the skin, and look for any pressure sores or ‘sore hocks’ on the feet and also assess the nail length.

    Once we have examined your pet hopefully we will have found nothing seriously wrong, and we will then make whatever recommendations we think are necessary for the diet and care of the pet.

    Geriatric Health Checks

    Rats have short life span with the reported life span being 2-3 ½ years, A pet rat survey in UK showed an average lifespan of only 21.6 months. Once your rat is older, or ‘geriatric’ we advise moving to checks every six months as it is safer. (6 months for a rat is roughly equal to 15 years for a human.)

    We believe this ‘geriatric’ to be over 18 months although just like humans, animals age at different rates! If you are worried or would like a check every 3 months, that’s fine with us. We do understand that many of our owners worry very much.

    At this check we will assess body condition, muscle and fat levels, hydration and check for anaemia. We will check the eyes, ears, and a dental examination. We will feel the lymph nodes, palpate the abdomen for any abnormalities and listen to the heart and lungs.

    We will check the whole body carefully as growths are one of the most common problems in older rats.

    We will search for parasites, and examine the skin, and look for any pressure sores or ‘sore hocks’ on the feet and also assess the nail length.

    We will also be paying particular attention to the ‘gait’ or movement of the pet, and the flexibility as mobility problems become more common in the older animal. As they are often too nervous to move freely in here a video of walking and running, and self grooming can be very helpful.

    We may suggest taking a blood test every 6-12 months to monitor the blood cells, and  organ function. We usually collect the blood from a vein in the tail, we use a small needle and collect about 3 drops of blood, and it should be over in a few seconds. We often give some anaesthetic gas and oxygen as it makes this quicker and easier.

    Once we have examined your pet hopefully we will have found nothing seriously wrong, and we will then make whatever recommendations we think are necessary for the diet and care of your older rat.

    Nutritional Advice

    The wild rat lives on a diet of anything he can find, however we do not recommend a diet of dropped French fries and fish balls.

    The best diets are those that have been specifically designed for rats- such as lab rat food or Mazuri Rat and Mouse diet. These can be hard to find though, and  if not fed since the rat is young then may be difficult for the rat to adjust to.  Seed & cereal mixes are a reasonable choice as long as the rat is not overfed them. If they are overfed they will pick out all the tastiest high fat seeds first. You must not keep adding more food into the bowl as your rat will carry it away and hide the not-so-delicious stuff for later – but eat the favourite straight away!  Feed a restricted volume 2 x a day – a large teaspoonful morning & night should be plenty. Offer a mix of several different vegetables and fruits every day – we suggest 5 types, and try to vary as much as possible.

    For example   Monday – Broccoli, cucumber,pumpkin, strawberry, apple.

    Tuesday    Sweetcorn, carrot, choi sum, tomato, orange

    Vegetables may be cooked or raw.   A small amount of dry pasta is good for keeping the teeth short.

    Remember any diet changes MUST be slow and gentle. Upsetting the gut causes bacterial imbalances. Please take a week or two to gradually introduce a new vegetable or a new brand of pellets.  Rats are reluctant to change, and it is important to get them onto a good quality pellet plus the missed veg/fruit when they are still young.

    One of the major health problems we see is obesity from loving owners over-feeding and under-exercising.

    Husbandry Advice

    Water.

    24 hour access is essential.  A sipper bottle is best. We believe Hong Kong tap water is safe, but of course you may boil it first if you prefer. Do not change water abruptly (i.e. to a bottled water) as it may taste different and your rat may not drink it. We have seen animals dehydrated or in gut stasis for reasons such as the water sipper ball getting stuck, and because the animal did not like the taste of the new water.  Rats do like to play in water and floating a few peas in a shallow tray of water ( like a painting tray) will give them lots of fun – and make lots of mess !

    Cage.

    Size is important. We advise at least  45x 60  cm 2 floor space per rat.

    The floor of the cage should be solid, not wire, as wire may cause ulceration of their feet.

    If you leave a corner of the cage with wire, many rats will use that corner for the toilet. You may also put a special toilet in.

    Of course you must keep the cage clean and dry. Newspaper may be used to cover the base as the inks are soya based and non toxic. You should then use bedding such as hay or paper bedding like care fresh. We don’t like woodchips here as they can be dusty, irritant and even poisonous.

    A hide box in the corner will help keep ratty feeling safe.  A solid wheel will help with exercise.

    Several layers, hammocks, swings, climbing ropes, tubes and boxes will keep them active and playing. All surfaces should be solid.

    Friends. 

    We would like all rats to have at least one companion as they are a very social species. Bonded rats will groom each other, talk to each other and play together. They can be kept in larger groups as long as they are “single sex”

    Having a friend or three will make all those hours in a cage, waiting for you to come home go quicker.

    A young rat should take quickly to a companion, but adults may not and they may fight and cause injuries. Please ask us during a consultation how best to introduce your adult pet to a potential companion.

    Desexing   We recommend chemical desexing of female rats rather than surgical, and are happy to discuss this in consultation.   We would desex a male rat to allow a pair to live together without breeding, although we do recommend same sex pairs.

    Hospitalization

    We have a ward dedicated to our exotic patients who like warmth, such as rats, reptiles and birds.  It was designed by our vets to keep these special animals as relaxed and comfortable as possible during their stay here.

    This ward is kept warm to 25-30 ‘C degrees to keep them comfortable. The cats and dogs which are potential predators (and therefore very scary) are kept in separate wards out of the sight and smell of these nervous creatures.

    We try to keep it calm and quiet in this ward and most animals settle down quickly.

    We have a wide range of pellets, and vegetables available to tempt the appetite, but if you would like to pack a little lunch box of the home foods you are very welcome. If necessary we will support feed with a liquid food.

    You may also bring in your pet’s own water bottle too.

    We have a wonderful nursing staff, all with British and Australian qualifications, who are very experienced with the care and handling of these nervous creatures. This is particularly important when they are not eating and need support fed, as many of our sick patients do.

    Preventative Care

    Parasites are rare.  The main health problems we see are respiratory disease, obesity and growths.

    Weight Monitoring

    Many of the pets we see become overweight as they mature. They have an easy and comfortable life with food available every day and often not enough exercise.

    If you feel that your little darling is overweight (or if the vet tells you this!) you are welcome to make an appointment for a ‘Weight Consultation’ with one of our veterinarians.

    The vet may also discuss this and recommend a weight loss diet during a health check or consultation and give you advice on the right combination of foodstuff for weight loss for your pet as well as how to encourage exercise.

    The vet will set a target weight & a time span to lose this weight over.

    Losing weight too fast is not healthy, and as these animals are much smaller than us, we may plan for them to loose a few grams per week.

    Once the diet plan has been set we will then be happy to make free “weight monitoring” checks for you to follow up, usually every month or two months, and these will be with one of our British Vet nurses or our Australian trained Vet Assistants.

    It can be very rewarding to see a little fattie regaining a slim healthy shape and becoming more active and flexible!

    Enrichment

    Rats are active, intelligent animals that really enjoy and need enrichment. They are social animals so a companion is very important for them. If not you must spend time every day playing & interacting with your pet and providing a variety of different enrichments.

    They are very keen on their food so a wide variety of vegetables will keep them happy. Make a foraging tray which you can fill with pieces of cardboard or old hay (hay that the best bits may have already been eaten but is not dirty or mouldy) and hide their vegetables in here so they need to search for them.

    They are inquisitive and like exploring so let them out of the cage every day to explore, making sure there are no electrical cables they can chew on. A big pile of boxes and tunnels will be a castle for them.  Provide them with a hide box for when they need to sleep.

    Always offer them chew toys made out of safe woods so they always have something to nibble on.

我們會因應你寵物的種類及狀況,而有不同的收費和預約時段。

請於辦公時間致電 2687 1030,我們其中一位接待員會助您預約一個適當的診症時間。

請謹記通知我們的接待員您會攜來多少隻寵物,因為每隻寵物都需要安排獨立的診治時段,讓獸醫有足夠的時間正確地檢查每隻寵物,並與您進行商討。

請注意,我們在辦公時間以外負責接聽「緊急求助」電話的工作人員是無法預約辦公時間內的診治時段。